It was sunday, and Me , Luca , Ollie and uncle Matt we had packed all the surfboards and wetsuits to go surfing. We were going to No Access and it was pumping! We rushed to get our wetsuits on waxed our boards and ran down to the beach. I hadn't been surfing for ages and was dieing to get in the water. When we got in the water the cold rushed over me I jumped onto my board and started paddling. When I arrived out the back a big set rolled through and I was forced to duck dive . When I popped up I had a brain freeze it was excruciatingly painful.
When the next set came I was ready for I paddled and caught it I popped up and just did turn after turn then on the end section I did a massive floater. When I paddled back out I saw Luca catch a wave and do turn after turn just like me it was so fun towards the end I started to get cold and Luca was to but for sum reason Ollie wasn't cold. When I came in I looked around in time to see Ollie do a massive air revers and he nearly landed it I was so exited and wanted to do it again!
