I was the weekend and we were packing to go up to louisels we drove in the car I was so exited. When we arrived the surf was junk and sloppy but I still went out, I went out on my sisters soft top. Then my mum came out and I pushed her Into some waves. latter on the Daltons arrived and then the Mcfarlane's. We played around for a bit then Harry and Neko went out for a surf I watched them for about half an hour then I went out.
It was pumping It was about half a foot and barreling hard. It was a left hand break and I was on my back hand not my for hand but I didn't care because this was my good side for barrels! After a few more minutes Luca tong came out as Luca was paddling out I caught a wave and pulled up into a wide open barrel and it peeled all the way into the inside I was in the barrel for about 4 seconds! When I paddled out again I asked "did you see that or what!"
The next day we went out ready to get barrelled again but when we went out we were disappointed but after time I got better. We got barrel after barrel again and again. I got at least ten or twelve barrels before I came in. When I came in I had so many rashes I couldn't count them, I had neck rashes, hip rashes, chin rashes and every other rash you can think of. My arms were killing me as well I couldn't even lift a chair!
The very end!
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